Namche Bazaar, Nepal
10,308 feet above sea level; 64% oxygen

We quickly learned that getting to Everest Base Camp was only half the battle. Indeed, the 40-mile return to Lukla was just as, if not more, challenging.

By this point, many of us are hinging on near exhaustion. Our knees ache from the constant downhill pounding. We are congested and coughing from the dust kicked up on the trail. We are hungry for a meal beyond rice or noodles. We are cold. And we need a proper bed and toilet.

We’re ready to go home.

As we slog along the trail, I’ve asked two Canadians who have recently tackled the summit of Kilimanjaro a simple question: Which was harder? Easily, I’m told, it has been this trek to Everest. While Kili is about 1,500 feet higher, the trip itself is only 5-7 days, only one of which is above 16,000 feet. Our trek to Base Camp has been about twice as long and we’ve spent the last three days sucking for air above 16,000 feet.

We quietly all pat ourselves on the back and then refocus on the task at hand.

As the day wore on, we continued to retrace our steps, passing the stone ledges where we frequently rested and those pleasant restaurants where we soaked in the fantastic views over cups of Hot Lemons.

There was little talk on the trail except for the occasionally obscenity yelled by our Australian group mate. “I’m sick of this,” he muttered as we began a 45-minute dusty descent that crushed our joints. Secretly, many of us agreed.

My camera stayed in my backpack for most of the day but thankfully Ray, a well-traveled guy from the UK, snapped some pretty fantastic shots.

Soon, Namche Bazaar came into view and many of us could barely hold back our excitement for a return to reality. There were hot showers here! And Internet! Small bodegas that sold Diet Coke! And we could breathe! It was like we had arrived at Nirvana.

Showered and well fed, we sucked down Everest beers and started to reflect on what we had actually accomplished — how far we had gone and the blur of a past week.

At the table next to us, a group of trekkers chatted about acclimatization. They were clearly headed up the mountain while we were joyously heading down.

Part of me wanted to let them know what they were in for. But another part thought it might be best for them to experience it for themselves.

Pheriche, Nepal
14,340 feet above sea level; 53% oxygen

Who would have thought that you couldn’t actually see Mt. Everest from Everest Base Camp? It’s crazy but true.

After climbing into bed at 6 p.m. last night, my pounding headache prevented sleep. So, when our guides came to wake us at 3:45 a.m. for a trek to watch the sun rise over the tallest mountain in the world, it was pretty simple for me to get up.

With headlamps, we set out into the pitch black and began almost immediately an ascent. Stopping frequently to catch our breath, we watched as my altimeter showed our rapid climb that quickly broke 18,000 feet as we reached the summit of Kala Patthar.

The temperature outside was barely above the single digits — which we were frequently reminded of as we attempted to drink water from our frozen Nalgene bottles. As dawn slowly broke, we were blown away by the views, not just of imposing Everest (although impressive), but the surrounding landscape.

When we finally reached the summit, stamping our feet to stay warm and sucking down air, my watch indicated we were at nearly 19,000 feet.

We had just enough time to snap a few photos of Everest before we (literally) jogged down the mountain in order to escape to the warmth of the lodge.

After breakfast, we began our accelerated descent back to Lukla. Because our flight had been canceled and we had lost a day, we now had just three days to cover the same ground that we had checked off in the previous eight — about 40 miles and 3 vertical miles.

Luckily, the sun warmed up the temperatures and our acclimated bodies had less difficulty tackling the Nepali Flats. Indeed, the afternoon trek felt almost leisurely as we all had an opportunity to breathe a big sigh or relief. For the first time in over a week, we could also walk with our heads up – and continue to try and take in all of this amazing natural beauty.

Our altitude quickly dropped as we retraced our steps. A few miles beyond the Everest memorials, we descended a steep hill into a valley. Here, our next stop, Pheriche, came into view. The Panorama Teahouse offered just that — stunning views, but more importantly, a comfortable place to rest our weary heads.

Which was the first priority.

Gorak Shep, Nepal
16,995 feet above sea level; 52% oxygen

The thermostat could not have been above 10 or 15 degrees this morning. It was 5:30 a.m., the skies were still dark and we were freezing. Yet, there was a sense of nervous excitement downstairs in the dining room as we sipped our black teas. A week after arriving in Lukla, we would reach Everest Base Camp this afternoon.

But today would also be one of — if not, the most — difficult days of the trip. Dawa estimated a 9-hour, 10-mile trek, certainly our most strenuous. And to make matters more challenging, nearly all of this would take place above 16,000 feet.

By 9:30 a.m., we arrived at Gorak Shep, a village that sits atop a small, frozen lake. Gorak Shep was the base camp for the failed 1952 Swiss expedition to Everest. There is little to see here; it’s simply a resting point. So after an early lunch of tuna fish sandwiches, we continued northward.

Following the rough terrain of the Khumbu Glacier moraine, as the sun nearly blinded us and the wind howled, we advanced slowly along hills littered with boulders. “Can’t stop,” Dawa said, pointing upward. “Maybe avalanche.”

About halfway there, we caught a glimpse of Everest — its scary and intimidating black peak poking far beyond all of the surrounding mountains. Here, it’s above my right shoulder.

The last half mile was slow going, essentially ice trekking, as we slowly crossed onto the glacier with its 50-foot tall seracs of ice. Then, finally, it came into sight: a small mound of rocks, a few prayer flags and a handmade sign proclaiming three sweet words: Everest Base Camp. We were standing at 17,598 feet. There was a little less than 50% oxygen in the air.

As the season is young, there was little life at Base Camp. The expeditions generally don’t start setting up shop here until next month. But for a couple of minutes — as the next group of trekkers approached — we had Base Camp all to ourselves. Wind off the mountains picked up. And hearing nothing but Everest’s wrath, we took it all in.

Then, after celebrating for no more than 15 minutes an accomplishment that had taken us over a week, we simply turned around and started back home.

In Gorak Shep, the effects of altitude quickly set in. Terrible pounding headaches plagued most of the group. We agreed to have dinner at 5 p.m. not because we were starving — but so that we could go to bed immediately after.

But it would make no difference. At nearly 17,000 feet, there would be no sleep tonight.

Lobuche, Nepal
16,297 feet above sea level; 53% oxygen

Although today’s trek was only 4.5 miles, there was a vertical gain of over 2,000 feet. We knew that we would have our work cut out for us.

We started with some Nepali Flats — an accurate description of the undulating hills that have characterized much of the trek. Climb up, see false summit, climb down. Rinse. Repeat. Hiking through alpine meadows and summer yak pastures, we were led toward the end of the moraine of the Khumbu Glacier where there was a steep, tough climb.

We stopped for lunch at 9:30 a.m., a regular occurrence on the trail. While the group was chowing down on tomato soup and fries, a scenic overlook provided a quiet place for me to rest and take it all in.

Properly fueled, we began a tremendous ascent — here, you can see the trail, as well as our yaks in the lower right hand corner, for some perspective.

The trail was slow going, as we scrambled over boulders and took plenty of rests.

At the summit on Thok La was a memorial to the dozens of climbers and Sherpas that have been killed over the years while attempting Everest. We wandered the various chortens (stone monuments), including that of Scott Fischer, one of the guides involved in the 1996 disaster, and thought about why so many fearless, yet often ordinary folks, would take on such inherent risks.

From here, the view out straight toward Nuptse was truly magnificent. Given how beautiful and peaceful it was, we decided to have an impromptu photo shoot.

Back on the trail, we continued to gain elevation and climbed onto the Changri Glacier before arriving in Lobuche, a small village with nothing more than a few teahouses.

It had taken us nearly all day to hike just 4.5 miles. With pounding headaches, we rested at the Sherpa Lodge, a truly awful place with terrible facilities and freezing cold rooms. Dinner involved some creative thinking on my part — a can of tuna fish, some toast and a tube of Pringles, all for about $10 USD — and offered just a small reminder of life back home.

But it also gave my body the important energy required for tomorrow when we would set out for the destination that we had come all this way for: Everest Base Camp.

Dingboche, Nepal
14,298 feet above sea level; 57% oxygen

It was nice to “sleep in” this morning — that is, wake up after the sun was up. Similar to our second day in Namche, today was a rest day, designed to facilitate our acclimatization.

Still, a rest is not really a rest in the Himalayas. It’s important that you remain active, to keep the blood flowing in your body and facilitate the process. “No sleep,” Dawa said.

Instead, he had planned for us a hike up the Imja Khola to Chhukung, a small summer settlement from where the views of Island Peak, Lhotse, Ama Dabalm and the fluted ice walls flanking the Amphu Lapcha pass were one of the highlights of the entire trek.

We ascended to about 14,800 feet and gazed up. Even here, nearly five miles above sea level, these monster mountains soared above us. It was humbling.

At Chhukung was a small stupa adorned with prayer flags and a stupa — whose eyes looked out all-knowingly into the distance. Shielded from the wind, we spent about an hour taking in the views before descending back to the teahouse.

The afternoon was dedicated to reading, playing Uno and walking around the village, which didn’t offer much beyond a couple of small convenience stalls. Many of us opted for $6 USD hot showers — our last before hitting Base Camp.

Veggie chowmein for dinner was surprisingly decent, the best meal that I’ve had in a while. Retiring to my single “suite” with a hot water bottle, lights were out no later than 7:30 p.m.

Dingboche, Nepal
14,298 feet above sea level; 57% oxygen

The thermostat was in the mid-twenties when the sunrise woke us this morning.

While difficult to get out from our sleeping bags, the dawn — with its perfect lighting for photos — was compelling enough. We watched as the sun slowly rose, illuminating the face of Everest in the distance and a conch shell blew from the monastery called the monks to prayer.

After breakfast, we descended steeply through rhododendrons, birches and conifers, crossed a river and then began climbing upward. Today’s trek was about 5 miles but as we cruised above the 14,000-foot mark, became increasingly difficult. At this altitude, the landscape changes markedly — trees cannot survive here – as we entered alpine meadows of scrub juniper.

Occasionally, a rescue chopper flew overhead. During the high season — which begins next month – our guide, Dawa, said that there could be several dozen trekker evacuations per day.

Yet, altitude or not, the more we walked, the more dramatic the terrain became.

We were encouraged as we approached the village of Dingboche, knowing that we would have two days here to rest and acclimate. By this point, nearly everyone in the group is feeling some symptoms of the high altitude: whether it’s headaches, achy joints or popped capillaries.

But, generally, we’re still in pretty good spirits.

Tengboche, Nepal
12,687 feet above sea level; 60% oxygen

Chapatti and peanut butter is my new breakfast staple.

Only several days into the trek and I’ve already gotten tired of the food of Nepal. The country’s national dish is dahl baht — a bland concoction of rice, steamed vegetables and lentil mush.

No thanks.

Ascending toward Base Camp, eating has taken on a whole other purpose though. We eat because we must. There is no meat on the teahouse menus and even vegetables are of questionable quality. Dishes revolve around potato, noodle and rice — there is little culinary experimentation up here. And the bland food isn’t helped by the fact that higher altitudes cause gases in the stomach to expand, reducing appetite.

So, it was with excitement that chapatti, a simple, unleavened bread, with a smear of peanut butter really hit the spot. It would become my breakfast of choice for the rest of the trek.

Leaving Namche, the route was unbelievably beautiful — the Dudh Kosi was far below and Thamserku, Kantega, Ama Dablam, Lhotse and Everest rose in front of us. From here, we really could begin to appreciate the amazing magnificence of this setting, dwarfed at nearly 14,000 feet by six out of ten of the tallest mountains in the world.

A lone stupa sitting on the mountainside provided a scenic resting spot to take in the views.

We trekked for 6 miles through woods, rhododendron forests, mani walls, chorten and water-driven prayer wheels. Crossing suspension bridges, we arrived at the base of a steep and dusty ascent and fueled up on egg chowmein at a small riverside restaurant.

The ascent up to Tengboche rivaled that of the ascent to Namche but we felt better acclimated and prepared to tackle it. Still, we were quite tired when we finally rolled into our teahouse, Tashi Deleck, but were absolutely blown away by the setting of the famous Tengboche Monastery, which we visited shortly after setting our bags down.

Unfortunately, the teahouse didn’t come close to matching the imposing scenery and as darkness and the thermostat fell, we began to nervously anticipate the evening. Our rooms had no blankets and were only moderately protected from the elements. There was no indoor toilet and the sink consisted of a tub of water in the courtyard.

We filled our Sigg bottles with boiled water and took them into our cocooned sleeping bags. Wearing three fleeces, it wasn’t nearly as cold as I’d thought it would be.

That is, until the time came to get up in the pre-dawn morning.

Namche Bazaar, Nepal
10,308 feet above sea level; 64% oxygen

Ten hours later, the answer had popped into my head. The sunlight was streaming through my windows and the air was cold enough to see my breath. In the near distance, awe-inspiring mountains soared into clear blue skies. My headache was gone. And my appetite was back.

So, why trek to Everest?

Not just to push myself — physically and mentally — on what is considered to be one of the most challenging treks in the world. But to experience and to see the Himalayas and Everest itself, this unspoiled sliver of land that has for years drawn in mountaineers and other adventurers.

What was so intoxicating about this place?

The Upper Khumbu is a region of dazzling light and immense spaces. According to the local Sherpa people, Khumbu is a sanctuary for Buddhists in times of trouble — the hidden valley will reveal itself to those in need — which many say accounts for that somewhat magical feeling that permeates it.

As part of the acclimatization process, we planned to spend an additional day in Namche Bazaar, a village carved into the mountainside. Dawa recommended that we heed the oft-given advice of hiking high and sleeping low, so with daypacks we began the steep 3-hour ascent to Sengboche.

At the Everest View Hotel, the “highest hotel in the world” (according to the Guinness Book of World Records), we had views of the surrounding valley — both where we had come from and where we were headed. A dirt airstrip, more ominous than that at Lukla, offered its own entertainment as we attempted to catch our breath after climbing to 12,500 feet.

From here, we peered downward back into Namche as well as north — toward the towering Himalayas and imposing Everest — where we would continue our trek tomorrow.

It was a slow walk back to the teahouse during which our guide, Dawa, explained how he had grown up — and come to love — the mountains that we were now hiking in.

Back in Namche, we walked around the crowded village with its trekking shops, lodges, bakeries, Internet cafés and even an ATM. We laughed thinking how its rupees were hauled from Lukla on the back of a yak — like just about everything else here. Prices of goods certainly reflect this “tax.” A map of the region, a pen and small tub of toothpaste cost me about $10 USD.

Bottled water here is about $1.25. As we ascend, the prices of everything — including the essentials like water — will soar three to four times of what they are in Namche.

With late afternoon, clouds began to envelop the village. Curled up in my sleeping bag, it was time to break out my book for this trip: Into Thin Air.

Several chapters in, it became apparent that it might not have been the best choice.

Namche Bazaar, Nepal
10,308 feet above sea level; 64% oxygen

My toes woke up tingling this morning.

To counteract the effects of high altitude, many of us are taking Diamox, a prescription drug that increases acidity in the blood. In turn, this forces the body to increase respiration and hydration, both of which help mitigate some of the most frequent problems associated with acclimating: headaches, loss of appetite and sleeplessness.

But it’s not without side effects: tingling extremities and frequent urination. Neither of which are much fun but when balanced with the benefits, make sense.

We set out this morning after a breakfast of toast, jam and black tea. The trail crossed the river on a long, swaying bridge that then led us along the smooth-stoned river bed to Benkar. From here, we crossed the Dudh Kosi again to its east bank on another suspension bridge and then had a short climb through the forests to Monjo.

The trail then banked steeply for an exhausting climb. Here, ascending over 1,000 feet an hour, we began to feel the effects of altitude. The walking turned slow and steady — any faster and we were left sucking air on the side of the trail.

Strangely, during our frequent breaks, we were quick to recover. Literally, within 30 seconds, we were breathing normally again. Clearly, it wasn’t the physical exertion but the lack of oxygen that was making us pant.

Six miles later, we arrived in Namche, the administrative capital of the region. Most of us were absolutely beat. The altitude was starting to take a particularly hard toll on me. I’d developed an uncomfortable headache that even several liters of water failed to calm.

Our teahouse, Camp de Base, was basic yet comfortable with private rooms and running water (a real luxury, we would learn).

Later, lying in my sleeping bag with a splitting headache — unable to get down dinner and with the smell of the squat toilet wafting into my room — the inevitable question popped into my head.

Why the hell were we doing this?

Phakding, Nepal
8,700 feet above sea level; 73% oxygen

Back at the airport at 5:30 a.m. this morning felt like a case of Groundhog Day. To make matters worse, another soupy layer of pollution hung thick over the city as the sun attempted to rise.

So, it came as little surprise when the first delay announcement came. While the tension rose, there was also cause for some relief: the cause was poor weather in Kathmandu. Indeed, Dawa confirmed that the skies were clear in Lukla.

By 10 a.m., the sun had burned off the fog and we were called to board our small aircraft, a Twin Otter designed to land and take-off on short runways. There were just enough seats to hold our group and 90 minutes later, we erupted into applause as our wheels lifted off.

Inside the non-pressurized cabin, we ascended to 12,500 feet for the 45-minute flight. After passing the tin towns on Kathmandu’s outskirts, we soared over terraced farms at the foothills of the Himalayas. Off in the distance, we then spotted a narrow, upwardly sloped runway carved into the mountainside.

Having watched the wild videos of landings into Tenzing Norgay Airport, the approach into Lukla did not disappoint. The runway is a mere 1,700 feet long, with one side 180 feet higher than the other.

Needless to say, it was not the least stressful landing that I’ve ever experienced.

Safe on the ground, now 9,366 feet above sea level, we handed over our bags to our porters — three zobkyo (pronounced like “joekay”), a mixed breed of yak and cow — retied our hiking boots and prepared to start our trek to Everest Base Camp.

Heading through pine and cedar woods along the Dudh Kosi Valley, the steep trail initially descended a steep flight of stone steps.

In this part of Nepal, there are no roads. The trail we were now following was essentially the Himalayan Highway. We would follow it through several dozen villages from Lukla for about 40 miles to the base of Mount Everest. The highway is subject to its own traffic: human porters and yak caravans carrying tremendous loads of building supplies, food, drinks and other goods.

We passed through the small village of Cheplung. The trail was lined with rocks engraved with Buddhist carvings, pearl white stupas and colorful prayer flags flapping in the breeze. There was the near constant sound of bells tied to the necks of yaks and zobkyo.

The skies were clear as we soaked in the magical scenery. We crossed several suspension bridges over gushing, crystal clear glacial water.

After about 3 hours and 3 miles, the Sunrise Lodge & Restaurant, in the small village of Phakding appeared. These simple teahouses offer basic rooms and foods; they are not the reason for visiting the Himalayas. But they do offer a place to recharge and refuel on the trek.

With a big day in front of us, we settled in for an early evening. Little did we know that our 8 p.m. bedtime would be the latest of the entire week.