Hiking against the clock

Plettenberg Bay, South Africa

Breakfast was good this morning; the view of the sun rising over the Kynsna Lagoon, even better. Directly across from the lodge is the Featherbed, a spectacular private nature reserve, and my first stop of the day. After making my way down to the wharf and buying a ticket, we boarded a small boat for the 4-hour Featherbed Experience.

We cruised the lagoon for about 20 minutes before unloading at the dock. A 4×4 took us up the hill from which their were some great vantage points.

The hike down was a couple of kilometers, the trail brought us past caves and some snakes and lizards. Waiting for us was a huge buffet lunch — salads, grilled meats, veggies, dessert. It was intense and delicious.

The boat was back on shore a little before 2 p.m. On the way, I’d read about what sounded like a few amazing trails at Robberg Nature & Marine Reserve in Pletternberg Bay — or simply Plett — a beach-side town about 25 minutes away. The reserve is on a rocky peninsula with a rugged coastline of cliffs and rocks. Next thing I knew, that was where I was headed.

The 11-km hike to the Point is the most well-known; the guard at the gate told me it typically took 4 hours. He didn’t recommend setting out at this point since some of the trail ran along the coast and as the tides rose, it could erase the path. Which meant only one thing: trail jog.

This was perhaps the first time on this trip that I was glad to be alone. I’m not sure who would have been cool, let alone enjoyed, my brisk “walk” — past inter-tidal marine pools and coastal dune fynbos. The Point was surreal: not a single other person, bright orange rocks and waves exploding into the shore line.

Hustling back and scrambling over rocks, the parking lot came into view. Sitting in the car, shirt drenched in sweat, the clock read 4:35 p.m., exactly two-hours from when I’d set out.

Not far was the Bay Lodge, where I’m spending the night. It’s a “luxury designer hotel” with lots of modern common space, sweeping views of the ocean, and perhaps most importantly, the first fast Internet connection since Cape Town.

Dinner was simple: two gin & tonics and a packet of cashews from the mini-bar. I’ve got to rest up. An early day awaits me tomorrow.